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Lunch with Enrico

Enrico Fantasia is one of the more interesting and engaging characters in the wine trade. Born on the island of Venice, he played French horn in the Gran Teatro La Fenice opera house in the city. Tiring of this, he ran a wine bar, and by a series of chance encounters ended up working for Sheridan’s cheesemongers in Galway, importing wine from Italy. He still supplies Sheridan’s with wine, but now runs his own wine company, Grapecircus, mainly supplying restaurants around Dublin. He is very knowledgeable about both food and wine, and even spent a few months working for Dario Cecchini, the world-famous butcher in Panzano in Chianti.

Italy is full of interesting wines that we rarely if ever see in this country. The current economic situation has made things even worse. Enrico laments the fact that the only white Italian wines that seem to sell here are Pinot Grigio and Gavi. I see most Gavi as little more than rich man’s (or woman’s) Pinot Grigio, so that says it all. Even Soave is seen as a little bit too esoteric. Why is it that we Irish don’t respect good Italian wine? It is often said that we don’t understand the food either – what Dublin really needs is one genuine high-quality Italian restaurant (London is full of them) and maybe everything would change. Enrico, however, is persevering, and with the help of Séan Gargano, one of the best sommeliers in Dublin, imports a range of really interesting, well-chosen wines. Most of them are available in Sheridan’s cheese shop in Dublin, possibly elsewhere too.

We had lunch in Dax Café on Pembroke Street, my first visit there. The place was buzzing. Over a strangely sweet salad of ham hock and other bits, followed by a plate of good cheese, we drank a bottle of Rosso di Montalcino.(Canalicchio di Sopra, €22.00 from Sheridan’s). It epitomised everything that is good about Italian and Tuscan wine; nicely concentrated with savoury dark almost bitter cherries, good acidity and a lightly tannic finish. A subtle rather than showy wine, but very enjoyable with food, one of those wines that opens out and improves as you work your way down the bottle.

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Easter Alternatives

When tasting at home, I usually taste blind (and then ‘seen’ afterwards) and try to taste a group of 6-8 similar wines at the same time. My backlog of wines had been building up, and after two days of very disappointing tastings, I really wasn’t looking forward to tasting still more wine. I understand this is not a complaint that many people understand, but tasting a series of well-made, but uninteresting wines night after night tires very quickly. Last night I found five wines supplied for a ‘Something different for Easter’ article which never materialised. We had nothing for dinner, so I bought a shoulder of lamb from my local butcher, which I roasted. Not only was the lamb magnificent – tender and full of flavour, but three of the wines were really enjoyable and each went very nicely with the lamb. So, three very different wines, each good in their own way, and perfect with Easter lamb. I also tasted a few white wines, and really enjoyed a Chenin Blanc from the Loire Valley, pert of the Superquinn wine sale currently running.

J. Mourat ‘Sacré Blanc’ Chenin Blanc 2010

Fresh honey and quince on nose and palate, with good acidity and pretty decent length. A really enjoyable interesting wine at a great price.

€11.99 down to €9 for the Superquinn Spring French Wine Sale

Masciarelli Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2009

Light violets and red cherries on the nose; light sweet fruit with good acidity; very pleasant and refreshing, with a nice earthy note on the finish. A very Italian wine that went very nicely with the lamb.

€14.50-14.95 from Fallon & Byrne, Exchequer St; Baggot Street Wines; 64Wine, Glasthule; Wicklow Arms, Greystones; Deveneys, Rathmines; Corkscrew, Chatham St.; Nectar Wines, Sandyford; Hargadons, Cabinteely.

Castello di Potentino 2005, Montecucco Rosso

Sweet ripe cherry nose with an earthy note; on the palate, sweet old-style Italian, with tea and liquorice flavours alongside the mature sweet fruit; possibly not the most polished, with some drying tannins on the finish. Possibly tiring a little, but a wine of real character and I really liked it – great with the lamb too.

€14.10 from www.fromvineyardsdirect.com

Domaine des Hauts Châssis, Cuvée Esquisse 2010

Forward clean dark fruits on the nose; sweet and savoury at the same time, with cool just-ripe dark cherries, and a light savoury kick, and a touch of tobacco; no great concentration or structure, but a very pleasant wine for drinking now.

€19.95 from www.thewinestore.ie , The Vineyard Galway; On The Grapevine, Dalkey.

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PORTUGESE TASTING

PORTUGESE TASTING

Below a range of really interesting off-beat wines that I tasted for a recent article in The Irish Times. Sadly I am limited to four wines each week, so I thought I would include the remainder here. All were tasted blind.

WHITE WINES

Cistus Branco Reserva 2009, Douro
14%
€11.50

Not much on the nose; crisp pithy stone fruits, bone dry with some quince. A pleasant wine with a bit of character. 11/20

Stockists: Mitchell & Son, IFSC and Glasthule. www.mitchellandson.com

Quinta da Lixa 2010, Vinho Verde
11.5%
€9.99

A little fiz when you pour, as is traditional with Vinho Verde; lifted tropical fruit and pear aromas; light crisp and fresh with apple and grapefruit. A mouth-watering wine with lots of zip. This would be great as an aperitif or with slighter seafood. The Muscadet of Portugal? Very good value. 11.5/20

Imported by Grace Campbell. Email kevinohara1@eircom.net for local stockists.

Provia Régia Premium 2010, Bucelas
13%
€12.99

Rich pear and peach aromas, with a touch of bananas too; light, but this carries quite a bit of fruit, ripe peaches shot through with lemon zest and grapefruit; Very stylish fresh wine. 13/20

Imported by Grace Campbell. Email kevinohara1@eircom.net for local stockists.

Morgado de Sta. Catherina Reserva 2008
13.5%
€14.99

Arinto fermented and aged in new French oak. A much deeper colour, with broad spice, cloves and some peach fruits. Good acidity too. This would appeal to those who enjoy oaky wines. I prefer slightly less spice. Good wine though. 12/20

Imported by Grace Campbell. Email kevinohara1@eircom.net for local stockists.

Antão Vaz de Peceguina
13.5%
€17.95

A lightly floral nose; medium-bodied with a nice creamy texture, spiced apples and pears, with lovely clean length. This is a really well-made modern wine, bearing some similarity to a white Burgundy. 14.5/20

Imported by Grace Campbell. Email kevinohara1@eircom.net for local stockists.

RED WINES

Quinta do Cardo, Beria Interior, 2009
13%
€9.99

Is this the Portugese version of Beaujolais? It has light fresh raspberry and redcurrant fruits, tangy and lively, with a dry slightly raspy finish. Different and possibly not a crowd pleaser, but I really enjoyed it with dinner later – it is certainly a food wine. 11.5/20

Imported by Grace Campbell. Email kevinohara1@eircom.net for local stockists.

Grilos 2008 Dão
13%
€11.25

Light violets on the nose; a very good food wine with nice acidity, no real tannins, and pleasant smooth easy dark damson fruits; no huge concentration but an appealing good everyday wine, of the sort I really enjoy. 12.5/20

Wicklow Wine Company info@wicklowwineco.ie 0404 66767 for stockists.

Quinta do Cachão 2009, Douro
14%
€11.30

Relatively light fruits, cooler with good acidity and no rough edges, although a nice earthy savoury touch. This went down very nicely with roast pork for dinner. 11.5/20

Karwig Wines www.karwigwines.ie , email info@karwigwines.ie for local stockists.

Dom Rafael, Mouchão 2009, Vinho Regional Alentejano
14%
€14

Mouchão is one of the historic wineries of Portugal, owned by the Reynolds family since the mid-nineteenth century, (with a brief interlude during the revolution in 1974). The flagship wine, just called Mouchão is serious stuff indeed, and well worth trying out. There are also a few special cuvées which I tasted on a visit there a few years back. The Dom Rafael is made to be drunk earlier. This is a fairly powerful structured wine with serious chewy ripe dark fruits, well-integrated tannins and very good concentration. A great winter wine with real character to serve with stews or red meats. 14/20

Paulo Laureano Clássico 2009, Vinho Regional Alentejano
14.5%
€11.95

This had a funky slightly animal edge to the dark plum aromas and some spice too; on the palate earthy meaty warm fruits and no real tannins. A rustic wine but pleasant with a slight tarriness too. Warming wine and very well-priced too. 12/20

For stockists, contact Mitchell & Son, IFSC and Glasthule. www.mitchellandson.com 01 2302301/01 6125540.

Paulo Laureano Permium 2008, DOC Alentejo
14.5%
€15.95

A medium to full-bodied wine with some new oak, but a nice distinctive cool plum character, nice loose tannic structure; a very well-made wine. There is very good quality fruit on the centre-palate. It opened out, and seemed to take on weight after a while into a fairly big swarthy wine that I really enjoyed. 13/20

For stockists, contact Mitchell & Son, IFSC and Glasthule. www.mitchellandson.com

Herdade dos Grouse Vinho Regional Alentejano
14.5%
€16.99 but on special at €12.99 in Fresh Outlets and La Touche Wines, Greystones

This was very different in style to the other wines; very modern, with svelte ripe rich classy fruits, and plenty of spicy new oak. There is good concentration too and quite noticable alcohol.
A very appealing commercial style, almost Europe meets Australia with a Portugese twist. 13/20

Imported by Grace Campbell. Email kevinohara1@eircom.net for local stockists.

Quinta dos Aciprestes 2007, Douro
14%
€11.99

Savoury blackcurrant and wet-stone on the nose; somehow less structured than I expected, with sweet ripe strawberries, a real earthy maturity, a decent whack of alcohol but it seems in balance. It improved with time, developing a pleasing swarthiness. Nice wine. 12/20

Imported by Grace Campbell. Email kevinohara1@eircom.net for local stockists.

Casa de Santar 2008, Dão
13.5%
€12.95

Light pure dark cherry aromas; a really attractvie wine with clean morello and plum fruits a lovely light acidic kick at the end, good persitence and a dry finish. Yummy.14/20

Wicklow Wine Company info@wicklowwineco.ie 0404 66767 for stockists.

Munda 2008, Dão
14.5%
€27.50

This is serious stuff; warm ripe dark fruits and dark chocolate on the nose. A structured young wine with a masses of tight dark fruits, distinctive dark chocolate, and excellent length. Very nicely balanced, if a bit young. Decant before serving, or keep a year or two, but well worth the money.

Imported by Grace Campbell. Email kevinohara1@eircom.net for local stockists.

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MR. AMARONE

Mr. Amarone

A range of great Amarone going back twenty three years.

Mr. Amarone, Sandro Boscaini, president of Masi, specialists in all things appassimento, put on a great tasting this afternoon. It was Sandro’s father who first dreamt up the idea of Ripasso in the late 1950’s, making the first commercial vintage in 1964. Some years later, he offered the name to the local Chamber of Commerce, thus allowing other producers to use the term. He is not entirely happy with the current standards (some use the dried grapes three times – the result he says is a bit like a teabag; it gets lighter each time). However we were tasting Amarone. We tried eight wines, including six of the Masi Costasera, their ‘standard’ Amarone, and two vintages of Serègo Alighieri Vaio Amaron, from the ancient estate of the family of Dante Alighieri. It was a really good reminder that high alcohol wines can be perfectly balanced; also that Amarone, a much abused name, is a great wine. Some really good, and two absolutely stunning wines.

 

 Masi Costasera Amarone 2007

Young, intensely fruity wine, plums, baked fruit and spices. Good acidity, good length; a very good young wine. 14.5/20

 

Masi Serègo Alighieri Vaio Amaron Amarone 2005

Deeper in colour with pure dark chocolate, coffee and intense ripe dark fruits and vanilla; tannic and long, hugely concentrated. A very impressive young wine, which will only improve. 17.5/20

 Masi Costasera Amarone 2000

Starting to show some mature notes of tea and prunes, but still has some very attractive primary cherry fruits too. Savoury, long and very stylish wine. 16.5/20

 Masi Costasera Amarone 1998

Brown sugar on the nose; soft savoury liquorice flavours – tea, prunes and chocolate too; the alcohol stuck out a little at first, but it opened out very nicely, with a good bitter finish. 16.5/20

 Masi Costasera Amarone 1995

A slightly dirty nose initially, which blew off after a bit. Old woody, mint and figs, but a little vegetal too. Good, but not my favourite. 13.5/20

 Masi Serègo Alighieri Vaio Amaron Amarone 1995

A stunning wine of great power, complexity and balance. Big savoury plums soy, liquorice, cassis and hints of mint; changes all the time in the glass. Huge concentration, a lovely long bitter finish. 18.5/20

 Masi Costasera Amarone 1993

Hard to follow the wine above, and this was fine, but probably starting to fade a little; stewed tea, herbs, some soft prunes and a leafy note. Elegant and enjoyable. 16.5/20

 Masi Costasera Amarone 1988

I thought this was past it at first, but it opened out beautifully to reveal wonderful mature flavours of grilled hazelnuts, stewed fruits and raisins. Lovely sweet-sour flavours. 17/20

 

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A FEW TREATS AT ELY WINE BAR

Just returned from a cellar tasting at Ely Wine Bar, run mainly for the various sommeliers who work there, plus a few wine scribes. We tasted 20 wines, including a number of 2006 Bordeaux; Cos d’Estournel and Pape-Clement both outshone Léoville-Lascases for the moment, two excellent wines still in their youth. Also, a brilliant Bollinger Vieilles Vignes 1998. However the stars for me were two Burgundies, one red, one white and a quartet of Rhônes.

 Beaune Blanc ‘Aigrots’ 2005 Domaine Lafarge €69 in Ely

Wonderful white wine, reminiscent of a really good Hautes Côtes, rather than a Côte d’Or, with grilled nuts, whiteflowers and wet-stones. Lovely firm acidity and excellent length. 16/20

 

Volnay 2005 Domaine Lafarge €75 in Ely

A beautiful subtle fragrant floral nose; very firm and acidic on the palate, with a green touch (from the stems?) allied to lovely maturing red cherry fruits, and great length. Lovely wine that will develop a further 5 years or more. 16/20

 

The two red Châteauneuf were poles apart; a big meaty, earthy, tarry Domaine Pegau 1998, and a wonderful pure elegant Clos des Papes 2008, 15% alcohol but perfectly balanced, very long and intensely flavoured.

 

St. Joseph Cuvée du Papy, Domaine du Monteillet 2008 €59 in Ely

Wonderful fragrant, almost Burgundian nose; elegant delightful pure sweet/savoury dark cherry fruits. A special wine to seek out. 16.5/20

 Cornas ‘Brise Cailloux’ 2006 Domaine du Coulet

A superb just-ripe savoury nose of plums; masses of tight, concentrated ripe dark fruits, a mineral streak, and excellent length. Needs a year or two, but brilliant wine. 17/20

 

 

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AUSSIE RIESLING

AUSSIE RIESLING

I helped host a Riesling/Pinot Noir class yesterday afternoon, part of a course Wine Australia are running for sommeliers. The idea is to boost knowledge and therefore sales of Australian wine in our restaurants. As John McDonnell put it to the class, one out of every four bottles of wine sold inIreland is Australian, but we lag behind in restaurant sales. Apparently the same is true almost worldwide. Do we all change our drinking habits once we enter a restaurant? Do we become more conservative, or is it that few restaurants offer the comfort of a well-known brand?

I was partnered by Dave Palmer of Skillogalee winery in theClareValley. For me, and I think for most there, the Rieslings were the highlight of the night. The 2010 Skillogalee Riesling was a wonderful young wine, brimming with crisp ripe fruits, and a fine mineral edge. I can see how it beat 100+ other Rieslings in a recent Decanter tasting. The other highlight was a 2004 Clare Valley Riesling from O’Leary Walker (available from Thomas Woodberry in Galway, and others probably too) a super example of how this variety can mature. I also really enjoyed the youthful Plantaganet Riesling from Great Southern region and may stash away a couple of bottles. The bargain of the night was the Tim Adams Clare Valley Riesling, beginning to show some maturity, with excellent concentration, and available for around €10 in Tesco. Overall, it confirmed to me that the ClareValley produces some great Riesling (although EdenValley isn’t bad either), all exhibiting a real terroir, and capable of ageing. They all come in screw-cap too, great for reliability.

We only tasted five Pinots; I was impressed with the De Bertoli Windy Peak Pinot Noir, which has improved no end over the last few years. However, I am not sure it would stand up to wines of a similar price from Chile or New Zealand though. The same goes for the Innocent Bystander Pinot. Ozzie Pinot is still a work in progress.

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The Hidden France – A Holiday Snapshot Part One

The Hidden France – A Holiday Snapshot Part One

My wife, for reasons I cannot fully understand, generally insists that we holiday in places not noted for producing wine. As she is part-Danish this means Denmark every few years, interspersed by visits to France, and occasionally San Fransisco, where my sister lives. Her efforts to avoid vineyards are not always very successful. Last year in a summer house on the north coast of Denmark, we visited the farm shop a kilometre up the road to buy the evening’s veg. On arrival I spied a field full of vines! The farmer grew no less than twelve different varieties of grape. Sadly, most of the wine had sold out, so I cannot tell you what it was like. The two Danish wines I have tasted have been interesting, but expensive.

This year we went to two lesser-known regions of France. I love rural France; for me it has a special atmosphere and usually an interesting history. Both the Aveyron and the Ariège are picturesque regions, sparsely populated, but with plenty to do. Naturally I managed to dig out a few interesting wines too.

French Holiday

Marcillac & Gaillac
We spent the first week in the Aveyron, an hours drive north-east of Toulouse. Parts of the region are stunningly beautiful; rolling green and gold hills, a mixture of maize, sunflowers, pasture and deciduous forest, with the occasional medieval bastide town sitting on top of a steep mountain. Some parts, such as the town of Cordes-su-Ciel, are fairly touristy, but the rest is wonderfully peaceful. The weather is generally cooler than the coast, a perfect (for me) 20-30°C, with gentle breezes.

We had visited here before, but this year, I tried to discover a little more about Marcillac, a small little-known wine appellation spread out over a dozen or so communes to the north-west of the town of Rodez. There are a mere 150 hectares of vines there now, although in the 19th century, there were over 5,000 hectares. In the town of Villefranche-sur-Rouergue, I bought a couple of different bottles in a fois gras shop/museum near the city-centre. A few days later, I popped in to Domaine du Cros, a small estate about which I had heard good things. Philippe Teulier was on his lunch-break, but his mother kindly gave me a quick tasting. I bought a mixed case of the wines. The winery, built on several levels, and attached to the house, is fairly basic, but has a spectacular view out over the valley.

Marcillac is made from Fer Servadou, or Mansois as it is known locally. Entry-level Marcillac is delicious juicy, thirst-quenching wine, light in alcohol, with lip-smacking fresh summer fruits, some acidity, and no real tannins. Served cool it goes really well with charcuterie and lighter meat dishes. Locally it is served with Aligot, a rib-sticking mashed potato and cheese dish, and the local lamb. I tasted my way through half-a-dozen Marcillac. The basic wines were as described above, but the more expensive wines had real intensity and quality, whilst retaining that lightness of touch. See below for tasting notes.

Later in the week, I paid Domaine Plageoles in Gaillac a visit, and tasted the entire range of wines with Florent Plageoles, son of Robert. This estate has been a major force in rejuvenating Gaillac, producing high quality wines using almost entirely local grape varieties, many of which were in danger of extinction. Robert’s father Bernard, who worked as a researcher on grape varieties, founded the estate in the early 1980’s. I was greeted by a rather fearsome-looking Boxer, but it turned out all he wanted to do was lick my toes. I bought a mixed case of wines, including some real finds, such as the Mauzac Nature and a Vin de Voile, a sort of Sherry-style wine (actually more like a Vin de Paille from the Jura), and really enjoyed them over the holiday. They were bigger richer than the Marcillac, with relatively high levels of alcohol, often 14-14.5%.

All of the wines bar four are fermented and aged in cement tanks, the remainder in old oak. Plageoles has two estates, with different soils. Around the winery they are limestone and clay. Four kilometres north, around Bernard’s house they are marl and clay with silica, better suited to reds. See HERE for tasting notes.

French Holiday 2

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Dom Perignon & Grange Tasting

Dom Perignon & Grange Tasting

This promised to be one of the tastings of the year; mature vintages of two of the world’s great icon wines, known to just about anyone with even the vaguest knowledge of wine. Apparently Dom Perignon and Grange have held tastings such as this before in New York and other locations. Both producers did the ‘6’s – vintages ending in a six. Apparently they are usually lucky for Grange.

Dom Perignon
It is not every day that I get to taste DP, but in the past, on the few occasions I have managed it, I have never been over-whelmed. Is it the anti-corporate part of me, the bit that doesn’t trust the large multi-national corporations? Dom Perignon is part of LVMH, the French company that owns just about every luxury brand in France. I know I shouldn’t let my prejudices affect my tastings, but maybe I should plead guilty.

In any case, on the day, I was very pleasantly surprised; there were some truly great Champagnes, and no duds at all. Oenothèque is a special release of Dom Perignon, made from limited quantities of the same wine as the regular cuvée, but aged for a further period on the lees before release. Dom Perignon is aged for seven years prior to release, DP Oenethèque for fifteen to twenty years on the lees before bottling. These were stunning wines, a glorious mix of fine but rich mature fruit, with excellent acidity. I tried the current regular (2002) release of DP later that day. It too was excellent, and will I think reward a couple more years in the cellar. See below for tasting notes.

DOM-PERIGNON-TASTING

Grange
Grange is possibly less well-known in this country, but has a massive reputation in wine circles. Most critics see it as the greatest Aussie red. It was the brainchild of Max Schubert, the winemaker at Penfolds for many years. He returned from a visit to Bordeaux in 1950 determined to make a top-quality Australian red wine that could last for twenty years or more. He picked Shiraz (or Hermitage as it was then called) as the mainstay, sometimes adding a percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon. The first vintage was 1951. Legend has it that Schubert was forced to hide his new wine from the then owners, who would not have approved.

Unique amongst most fine wines, Grange (the Hermitage was dropped in 1990 following objections from the Rhône Valley) is made not only from a variety of vineyards, but also several regions. Most fine wines (with the exception of Port and Sherry) are the produce of a single vineyard. Typically the grapes are sourced primarily from the Barossa Valley and McLaren Vale, with Cabernet Sauvignon from Coonawarra, McLaren Vale and other regions. The amount of Shiraz used varies each year, but is generally around 90%, the remainder being Cabernet Sauvignon. Grange is always aged in 100% new American oak barrels.

The tasting was lead by Peter Gago, the irrepressible head winemaker at Grange/Penfolds. A former maths teacher, Peter is a brilliant speaker, and a great ambassador for both Penfolds and Grange worldwide. His wife is speaker of the upper house in the Australian parliament, so I would imagine they meet up once every few months. See below for tasting notes.

Dom Perignon Oenothèque Tasting Notes

DP OEnothèque 96, Disgorged in 2008, this had a big rich nose, leesy rich peach fruits, rounded and subtle with excellent acidity (the hallmark of the 1996 vintage), and very good length. Still needs time, but a wonderful Chamapagne. 17/20

DP Rosé OEnothèque 86, There was no Oenothèque Blanc made in 1986, so we tasted the rosé instead. Lovely crushed sweet strawberry fruits, a touch of honey and orange peel, with a very dry finish. Very good. 16.5/20

DP OEnothèque 76, A wine that explodes with flavour. It has a deep gold colour, light mushrooms on the nose, and a superb seductive honeyed, developed palate  that goes on and on. Lower in acidity than the 1996, but still very linear, yet powerful 18/20

DP OEnothèque 66 in magnum This had a wonderful nose, all brioche, toasted nuts and mushrooms; on the palate it was full and rich with grilled hazelnuts, buttery with lots of sous-bois and mushrooms, finishing dry. It is possibly fading a little, but a very ipressive wine. 18.5/20

GRANGE TASTING NOTES

Grange 2006 A pup of a wine. Deeply-coloured, not hugely forthcoming on the nose at first, and very closed and tight on the palate. It opens up to reveal a youthful nose of plums, blackcurrants and dark chocolate with toasty new oak. On the palate there is a massive concentration of dark plums, cassis, coffee and spicy new oak. It finishes very well with impressive length and very firm un-evolved tannins. A great wine in the making but needs time. Lots of time. 18/20

Grange 1996 This still has a very youthful colour, but has started to evolve wonderfully on the nose and palate. Forward ripe cassis and plum aromas, with some spicy new oak. The palate is loaded with seductive smooth ripe sweet cassis, dark fruits and dark chocolate, finishing very well. This is young, and will continue to evolve but is irresistible now. A great combination of power and intensity, but perfectly balanced. 19/20

Grange 1986 Full, forward aromas of plum, spice and cedarwood; on the palate it is rich, sweet, ripe and velvety, almost hedonistic at times, with dark chocolate, spice again and a firm long finish. Drinking perfectly now, but will improve further. 17.5/20

Grange 1976 Two bottles opened and sadly neither were in good condition.

Grange 1966 This was a lovely fully mature wine with mint and caramel on the nose; gentle leafy sweet ripe fruit, old leather, truffles and milk chocolate. Not going anywhere but a beautiful wine. 18/20

Grange 2003 Served at dinner later that evening; rich, with very concentrated broad sweet plums and spicy American oak. Powerful and full of flavour, but not quite as impressive as some of the earlier vintages. Maybe it just needs more time? 15.5/20

 

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Sed ut perspiciatis unde omnis iste natus error sit voluptatem accusantium doloremque laudantium, totam rem aperiam, eaque ipsa quae ab illo inventore veritatis et quasi architecto beatae vitae dicta sunt explicabo. Nemo enim ipsam voluptatem quia voluptas sit aspernatur aut odit aut fugit, sed quia consequuntur magni dolores eos qui ratione voluptatem sequi nesciunt. Neque porro quisquam est, qui dolorem ipsum quia dolor sit amet, consectetur, adipisci velit, sed quia non numquam eius modi tempora incidunt ut labore et dolore magnam aliquam quaerat voluptatem. Ut enim ad minima veniam, quis nostrum exercitationem ullam corporis suscipit laboriosam, nisi ut aliquid ex ea commodi consequatur? Quis autem vel eum iure reprehenderit qui in ea voluptate velit esse quam nihil molestiae consequatur, vel illum qui dolorem eum fugiat quo voluptas nulla pariatur?

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Cras rhoncus ipsum ac dolor. In hac habitasse platea dictumst. Nulla dapibus ultricies pede. Quisque augue risus, porttitor nec, suscipit ut, pellentesque quis, lacus. Duis adipiscing purus eu metus pharetra porttitor. Aenean sapien nisi, sodales non, facilisis nec, ultricies et, erat. Cras aliquam. Maecenas mi. Sed lacus arcu, malesuada id, ultricies et, ornare non, dolor. Maecenas turpis lacus, vehicula nec, blandit in, laoreet a, nibh. Donec aliquet. In et leo tincidunt tortor rhoncus convallis. Nulla facilisi. Praesent bibendum semper eros. Morbi risus. Nam tellus leo, ullamcorper egestas, venenatis quis, viverra ac, mauris. In hac habitasse platea dictumst. Curabitur at velit vel sem auctor hendrerit. Integer mauris orci, vehicula eu, feugiat ac, hendrerit ut, dolor. Fusce elit nulla, gravida quis, vulputate eu, rutrum vel, lectus. Integer cursus luctus nisl. Quisque quam. Aliquam lectus urna, porta in, viverra eu, pellentesque a, massa. Etiam eros sapien, porta et, aliquam et, bibendum sit amet, erat. Sed condimentum interdum lacus. In ut ante non felis tincidunt porta. Aenean aliquet ornare sem. Nunc dignissim, erat sit amet vulputate cursus, elit magna facilisis massa, quis hendrerit nunc odio id dui. Proin interdum dictum arcu. Pellentesque erat ante, ultricies ac, porttitor ac, dictum et, purus. Donec enim odio, gravida ut, imperdiet quis, rutrum ut, lacus.

Etiam pharetra scelerisque diam. Maecenas varius augue vel urna. Vestibulum erat nisl, fringilla vel, mollis et, aliquam non, elit. Nulla malesuada turpis nec velit. Donec vitae sem a metus dictum molestie. Ut dignissim, odio non porttitor convallis, sapien leo viverra lorem, a consequat mauris erat sit amet dui. Nullam rutrum feugiat massa. Nullam lacinia purus vitae massa. Pellentesque vel tortor eget nulla ullamcorper vehicula. Cras egestas euismod magna. Praesent laoreet aliquet nulla. Aliquam arcu. Proin vel neque non ligula sodales sagittis. Cum sociis natoque penatibus et magnis dis parturient montes, nascetur ridiculus mus. Sed magna. Pellentesque aliquet mollis arcu. Morbi at felis. Suspendisse ligula. Aliquam nisl arcu, vehicula vitae, hendrerit ut, sodales eu, augue. Sed tristique pretium risus. Ut luctus, dui quis commodo luctus, quam nulla ultricies lorem, eu ornare nulla metus at leo. Praesent rhoncus sapien sit amet mauris. Aenean commodo erat eu eros. Morbi tristique, risus sed consequat bibendum, enim augue tincidunt quam, ac semper libero velit vitae eros.

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Nam libero tempore, cum soluta nobis

Nam libero tempore, cum soluta nobis est eligendi optio cumque nihil impedit quo minus id quod maxime placeat facere possimus, omnis voluptas assumenda est, omnis dolor repellendus. Temporibus autem quibusdam et aut officiis debitis aut rerum necessitatibus saepe eveniet ut et voluptates repudiandae sint et molestiae non recusandae. Itaque earum rerum hic tenetur a sapiente delectus, ut aut reiciendis voluptatibus maiores alias consequatur aut perferendis doloribus asperiores repellat.Nullam ac erat. Donec a ipsum. Nullam tristique leo id lacus. Sed sed pede non arcu ornare interdum. Maecenas justo elit, rutrum in, adipiscing id, laoreet in, libero. Fusce quam. Donec a urna a enim gravida dictum. Nunc elementum, mauris sit amet imperdiet iaculis, dolor metus consectetuer mi, et tempor elit enim at massa. Duis ac nisl. Nullam pulvinar. Curabitur quam sapien, lobortis eu, luctus vitae, volutpat ac, metus. Nam elementum. Fusce fringilla. Praesent pulvinar turpis vitae justo cursus pulvinar. In hac habitasse platea dictumst. Nunc fermentum tellus interdum libero. Phasellus eros. Vestibulum euismod nunc at eros. Pellentesque nec ligula non tellus accumsan molestie. Pellentesque felis massa, tincidunt at, pulvinar id, placerat nec, velit.

Cras rhoncus ipsum ac dolor. In hac habitasse platea dictumst. Nulla dapibus ultricies pede. Quisque augue risus, porttitor nec, suscipit ut, pellentesque quis, lacus. Duis adipiscing purus eu metus pharetra porttitor. Aenean sapien nisi, sodales non, facilisis nec, ultricies et, erat. Cras aliquam. Maecenas mi. Sed lacus arcu, malesuada id, ultricies et, ornare non, dolor. Maecenas turpis lacus, vehicula nec, blandit in, laoreet a, nibh. Donec aliquet. In et leo tincidunt tortor rhoncus convallis. Nulla facilisi. Praesent bibendum semper eros. Morbi risus. Nam tellus leo, ullamcorper egestas, venenatis quis, viverra ac, mauris. In hac habitasse platea dictumst. Curabitur at velit vel sem auctor hendrerit. Integer mauris orci, vehicula eu, feugiat ac, hendrerit ut, dolor. Fusce elit nulla, gravida quis, vulputate eu, rutrum vel, lectus. Integer cursus luctus nisl. Quisque quam. Aliquam lectus urna, porta in, viverra eu, pellentesque a, massa. Etiam eros sapien, porta et, aliquam et, bibendum sit amet, erat. Sed condimentum interdum lacus. In ut ante non felis tincidunt porta. Aenean aliquet ornare sem. Nunc dignissim, erat sit amet vulputate cursus, elit magna facilisis massa, quis hendrerit nunc odio id dui. Proin interdum dictum arcu. Pellentesque erat ante, ultricies ac, porttitor ac, dictum et, purus. Donec enim odio, gravida ut, imperdiet quis, rutrum ut, lacus.

Etiam pharetra scelerisque diam. Maecenas varius augue vel urna. Vestibulum erat nisl, fringilla vel, mollis et, aliquam non, elit. Nulla malesuada turpis nec velit. Donec vitae sem a metus dictum molestie. Ut dignissim, odio non porttitor convallis, sapien leo viverra lorem, a consequat mauris erat sit amet dui. Nullam rutrum feugiat massa. Nullam lacinia purus vitae massa. Pellentesque vel tortor eget nulla ullamcorper vehicula. Cras egestas euismod magna. Praesent laoreet aliquet nulla. Aliquam arcu. Proin vel neque non ligula sodales sagittis. Cum sociis natoque penatibus et magnis dis parturient montes, nascetur ridiculus mus. Sed magna. Pellentesque aliquet mollis arcu. Morbi at felis. Suspendisse ligula. Aliquam nisl arcu, vehicula vitae, hendrerit ut, sodales eu, augue. Sed tristique pretium risus. Ut luctus, dui quis commodo luctus, quam nulla ultricies lorem, eu ornare nulla metus at leo. Praesent rhoncus sapien sit amet mauris. Aenean commodo erat eu eros. Morbi tristique, risus sed consequat bibendum, enim augue tincidunt quam, ac semper libero velit vitae eros.

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