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LIDL ITALIAN WINE PROMOTION

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Following on from Aldi last week, Lidl held a smaller tasting to highlight their forthcoming Italian wine sale. As per my comments on the Aldi wines, there were plenty of incredibly cheap, drinkable but unexciting wines, and a few worth trying out as well. The Italian Wine Sale, part of the ‘Italiamo Food Theme’ starts on 13th June and continues while stocks last. There are nineteen wines in total. In July, Lidl will also be introducing a range of craft beers from Ireland, the UK, and Belgium; I will post notes next week on these.

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Soave Classico 2015 Corte Allodola
€9.99

Clean fresh crisp apple fruits with a rounded finish. A very nice well-priced summer wine.

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Gavi di Gavi 2014
€9.99

Light fresh pear and stone fruits with a crisp dry finish. As with the Soave above, an inexpensive refreshing summer white.

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Morellino di Scansano 2014
€9.99

Ripe jammy, easy dark fruits. Juicy and very gluggable. Perfect with all sorts of barbecued red and white meats.

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Chianti Classico Riserva 2011
€9.99

I have written about this wine before. I would hesitate to describe it as a classic Sangiovese, and I don’t know how Lidl find a Chianti Classico at such a cheap price, but the ripe rounded sweet cherry fruits are very seductive and this is an inexpensive crowd-pleasing wine.

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Barolo DOCG 2012
€14.99

The most expensive wine at the tasting. This has some of the classic tannic grip and acidity of the Nebbiolo grape, along with some light savoury fruits. A little more fruit and it would be a good wine. As it is, this is an astonishingly cheap price for a Barolo, and worth trying out with grilled red meats if you are a Nebbiolo fan. But rounded and fruity it ain’t.

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Bougrier Les Hauts Lieux Chenin Blanc 2015, Vin de France

<strong>Bougrier Les Hauts Lieux Chenin Blanc 2015, Vin de France</strong>

DSCF6628Bougrier Les Hauts Lieux Chenin Blanc 2015, Vin de France
12%
€13.95 from O’Briens

We know our Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay, and some even Riesling, but how many of you have tried out Chenin Blanc? This is one of the world’s great white grapes, producing excellent long-lived wines, mainly in the Loire Valley and South Africa. Some are very sweet, others bone dry. This attractive very well-priced version has lovely clean peach and apple fruits with good crisp acidity, and a slightly off-dry finish. Perfect summer drinking at a great price.

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Pardevalles Prieto Picudo 2015, Tierra de León.

<strong>Pardevalles Prieto Picudo 2015, Tierra de León.</strong>

DSCF6587Pardevalles Prieto Picudo 2015, Tierra de León.
13.5%
€15 from Clontarf Wine, 64wine and the Corkscrew.

Every year, the Spanish seem to rediscover a long-lost grape variety. If you haven’t heard of the Prieto Picudo grape before, don’t worry; very few wine anoraks have either. I seem to remember trying a few very rough versions a year or two ago, but couldn’t swear to it. Then this very attractive wine landed on my doorstep. The grape is indigenous to the León region in north-west Spain. The wine is savoury with liquorice and plump dark fruits with a very pleasant freshness. Well worth looking out for.

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Torbreck Woodcutter’s Semillon 2013, Barossa Valley

<strong>Torbreck Woodcutter’s Semillon 2013, Barossa Valley</strong>

WoodcuttersSemillonTorbreck Woodcutter’s Semillon 2013, Barossa Valley
13.5%
€24.95 from O’Briens

This is an unusual but very enjoyable wine. In the past, Dave Powell’s white wines were very full-bodied and oaky (I quite liked them), but he seems to have toned down the oak a bit and possibly picked earlier to get a fresher more balanced style.

This has delicious floral and toasted almond aromas, medium-bodied waxy lemons and honey on the palate and a bone dry finish. I would happily lay down a few bottles, as I suspect it will age for another five years. Right now, I would drink it with grilled and barbecued fish or chicken dishes.

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Cheverny ‘Rouillon’ 2015 Clos de Tue-Boeuf

<strong>Cheverny ‘Rouillon’ 2015 Clos de Tue-Boeuf</strong>

ImageCheverny ‘Rouillon’ 2015 Clos de Tue-Boeuf
12%
€22.95 from Blackrock Cellars, 64wine, Glasthule & Le Caveau, Kilkenny.

Not many wine geeks will have heard of Cheverny. It is one of those very obscure appellations of the Loire Valley. The white wines are a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Arbois, Chardonnay or Pinot Blanc. The red is also a blend, of Gamay and Pinot Noir or Cabernet Franc.

Thierry Puzelat is one of the leading exponents of natural winemaking in France. His wines are made with no added yeasts and little or no sulphur. When they work, I find them spectacularly good, although I have tasted a few very barnyardy examples in the past. This was delicious, a refreshing fruit-filled wine with redcurrants and raspberries and a fine elegant acidity and an earthy touch. Serve cool with all sorts of pork and chicken dishes.

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South African White Wines

South African White Wines

First published in The Irish Times Saturday 28th May, 2016

Over the last decade, South African wine has gone through something of a revolution. There is a new generation of younger winemakers. These men and women are now producing some of the most exciting wines in the New World (we think of South Africa as “New World” yet the wine industry here goes back 350 years).

The quality of reds has improved greatly, but it is the white wines that has everybody in the wine world talking. South Africa now makes world-beating Chardonnay. It can also offer excellent Sauvignon Blanc, especially from cooler areas such as Elgin, Overberg and Darling. Others are experimenting with Roussanne, Marsanne and Viognier.

Often it is blends of these and other varieties that provide the most excitement. An article on South African white wines cannot leave out Chenin Blanc, so long the workhorse grape variety of wine production here. There are now seriously good and uniquely South African wines made from this variety.

Many will be familiar with Stellenbosch, Paarl, Constantia and Franschhoek, but often these days it is areas such as Swartland, Elgin, Cape Point and Malgas that are producing the greatest excitement. Swartland, and the Swartland Independent Growers in particular, deserve an article all to themselves. The most influential figures in the South African wine scene are probably Charles Back, producer of good value Rhône-style wines and Spice Route, as well as Eben Sadie of Sadie Family wines, and viticulturist Rosa Kruger.

Lismore sounds Irish, as does the proprietor Samantha O’Keefe, and there is a distant connection, but O’Keefe is actually from California. In a short time she has made herself one of the most respected wine producers in South Africa. I tasted her Chardonnay (below) alongside an excellent Viognier.

Recently founded Keermont is an example of how good South African blends can be, and chef and Master of Wine Richard Kershaw is another rising star. Sadly all are expensive.

We haven’t always had a great range of South African wines in this country, but recently I tasted some of South Africa’s finest white wines courtesy of two importers.

Dr Éilís Cryan of Kinnegar Wines has a mouth-watering list. Wine Masons also has a smaller well-chosen range, including the Keermont below, Ghost Corner, Cederberg and DeMorgenzon. Look out too for wines from Mullineux, De Trafford, Alheit, Chamonix, Morgenster, alongside familiar names such as Paul Cluver, Kanonkop, Neil Ellis and Rust en Vrede.

Image 2Cape Peninsula Sauvignon Blanc 2015 Cape Point
13%
€14.99

Made by rising star Duncan Savage, a lovely clean precise aromatic dry Sauvignon that compares very favourably with many from Marlborough.

Stockist: Marks & Spencer

Image 1Kershaw Clonal Selection Chardonnay 201, Elgin
13.5%
€44.95

A very good imitation of a top Burgundy at a similar price. Racy green fruit and subtle toasted hazelnuts. Delicious.

Stockists: Kinnegar.com; Mitchell& Son; Redmond’s; 64wine.

ImageKeermont Terrasse 2013, Stellenbosch
13.5%
€28-30

Complex and textured blend with layers of flavour; honey, peaches, grilled nuts and spice.

Stockists: Corkscrew.; Redmond’s.

ImageLismore Chardonnay 2013, Greyton
13.5%
€33.50

A superb Chardonnay, subtly spiced and fresh with luscious fruits. But most of all impeccably balanced.

Stockists: Kinnegar.com; Mitchell & Son; Redmond’s; 64wine.

Posted in: Irish Times

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Aldi Press tasting

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Aldi held their summer wine tasting recently in the Cliff House – a lovely venue for a tasting. As usual at the Aldi event, some decent wines and jaw-dropping prices. As argued here before, these days wine producers can make large quantities of inoffensive, largely off-dry white and red wines at incredibly cheap prices. But don’t expect too much in the way of excitement. There were some nice wines here, but they were usually up at the €13 a bottle level – and at that price, the other supermarkets and some independents can compete quite successfully.

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Philippe Michel Crémant de Jura
12%
€10.79

This has featured many times before; it is still one of the best-value bottles of fizz in Ireland. Crisp green apple fruits, very gluggable and streets ahead of most Prosecco in my book.

Exquisite Collection Blanquette de Limoux
12%
€13.99

Slightly unusual nose (possibly the Mauzac) with some elderflowers; a very pleasant light fruity bottle of fizz. Made by Jean Claude Mas, as were a number of French wines at the tasting.

Exquisite Collection Rías Baixas Albariño 2015
12%
€8.99

Good ripe, off-dry pear fruits, with plenty of zesty acidity and some length too. Well-made wine.

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Vouvray 2015
11.5%
€8.99

A very nice medium-dry wine with lots of acidity, genuine Chenin Blanc fruits – pears and quince, with a touch of honey.

Exquisite Collection Riesling 2015, Clare valley, Australia
13%
€8.99

Classic Clare Valley Riesling with crisp green apples and plenty of citrus acidity. Well-made wine.
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Exquisite Collection Ch. Latour Laguens, Bordeaux

13%
€9.99

I forgot to write the vintage down for this wine; it is a good clean Bordeaux with nice warm fruit and a rounded finish. Good value for €9.99

Ch. de Caussagues, Corbières
13%
€6.99

Amazing price. Light sweet jammy fruit. An option for those on a very tight budget.


Toro Loco Bobal Merlot 2014, Spain

13%
€6.79

The cheapest wine at the tasting I think, but not the worst. Light easy juicy fruits with a sweetish finish.

Lot 12 Anjou Chenin Blanc 2012
13%
€12.99

I have written about this wine before, from Ch. de Fesles, one of the posher Chateaux of the Loire. Very crisp and dry, in fact razor sharp, with lightly honeyed green fruits and a bone dry finish. Good wine.
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Lot 14 Minervois La Livinière 2014
13.5%
€12.99

Fragrant, elegant wine with warm plum fruits and some spice. Well-made fairly-priced wine.

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Lot 15 Grès de Montpellier 2014

14%
€12.99

Good rich savoury fruits, with light tannins. Nice wine with plenty of stuffing; with red meats.

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Islands in the Sun

Islands in the Sun

First published in The Irish Times, Saturday 21st May, 2016

From its probable birth over 8,000 years ago in the Caucasus, vine growing and wine drinking was spread, by the Phoenicians, and later the Greeks and Romans, around the entire Mediterranean. Wine sustained empires and provided its inhabitants with something safe to drink.

By the time you read this column, I will be down at the Ballymaloe Litfest 2016, the third year of this excellent event. On Sunday lunchtime I will be giving a talk and tasting entitled Islands in the Sun.Since a visit to Pantelleria a decade ago, I have been fascinated by the island wines of the Mediterranean. Wine was produced on virtually every island of any size, many of them volcanic. Despite being surrounded and ruled by various competing powers, many have developed a separate identity, with undiscovered indigenous grape varieties producing unique wines.

Sicily is the largest island in the Mediterranean. Once a source of cheap bulk wine, it is now home to some of the most exciting producers, on the slopes of Mount Etna in particular. Sardinia was ruled for four centuries by the Spanish kingdom of Aragon (as was Corsica). As a result, Sardinia’s most famous red wines are made from Cannonau, the local clone of the Spanish Garnacha.
The best white wines comes from the Vermentino (known as Rolle in France) grape, a variety that retains acidity in warm climates, and is showing great potential both here and in Corsica as well as mainland France and Italy. The wines of Corsica are less easy to find. The lesser wines go under the wonderful title of Ile de Beauté. The more expensive wines tend to stay on the island, or can be found on mainland France.

Moving to Greece, the island of Santorini once supplied Eucharistic wines to the Russian Orthodox church. Today, this arid windy volcanic outcrop produces some unique fresh, crisp mineral dry white wines from the indigenous Assyrtiko grape. The vines are formed into basket-like circles that stay close to the ground.

Pantelleria is a small volcanic island that is closer to the coast of Africa than Sicily. Here the ancient practice was to shield vines from constant wind by digging small craters in the volcanic rocks. The Muscat grapes, called Zibibbo here, are dried in the sun, before being fermented into a luscious sweet wine.

This is only scraping the surface. There are so many more. For the tasting I have sourced wines from Corsica, Malta, the Canaries, as well as those below. Space does not permit me to cover them all here, but if you are free this Sunday, why not come along?

DSCF6559Pinot Noir Réserve 2015, Ile de Beauté, Barton & Guestier
11.5%
€11.99 (sometimes offered at €9.99)

Light juicy easy red fruits with a refreshing acidity. Perfect summer drinking.

Tesco; C&T Supermarkets; Carpenters, Castleknock; Amber,Fermoy; Joyce’s, Galway.

Image 3Gaia Wild Ferment Assyrtiko , Santorini 2015
13%
€22.95

Fresh floral and mineral, Chablis-like with crisp fruits and a lingering dry finish.

Stockists: O’Briens

Image 4Tenute Dettori Vino Renosu Rosso NV, Sardinia
13%
€17.50

Delicious welcoming warm herb-scented wine with soft red fruits.

Stockists: 64wine, Glasthule.

DSCF6556Cerasuolo di Vittoria Classico 200, Azienda COS, Sicily
13%
€30

Soft smooth strawberry and plum fruits overlaid with dark chocolate. Wonderful wine.

Stockists: www.cabotandco.com; No. 1 Pery Sq.; Market 57; Grapevine, Dalkey; Corkscrew; Red Island; Listons.

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Le Bel Ange 2014, Domaine Begude, IGT Pays d’Oc

<strong>Le Bel Ange 2014, Domaine Begude, IGT Pays d’Oc</strong>

DSCF6585Le Bel Ange 2014, Domaine Begude, IGT Pays d’Oc
12.5%
€12.95 for the month of May from O’Briens
Organic

I have featured this before I think, but this is one of my favourite white wines, made by Englishman James Kinglake at his domaine, high in the hills above Carcassonne. The blend of Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc works really well; the latter giving it a lovely zestiness, and the former pristine rounded green apple fruits. Think really good Chablis, but at half the price. Perfect on its own or with seafood, salads and summery recipes. Begude also produce a really good value Pinot Noir, also available from O’Briens.

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All Night Long Session Pale Ale

DSCF6622All Night Long Session Pale Ale

It mightn’t please the hard core craft beer drinkers, and I’m not sure about Lionel Ritchie fans either, but I can see this going down very nicely over the coming month, maybe longer if the Irish team qualify for the final stages of Euro16. Kicking in at 4.2%, this is a very tasty light refreshing beer with a pleasing hoppiness, although not too bitter and a nice fruitiness.As a session beer, it works very well. I like the retro (1990’s?) design too. This is available exclusively from Mulloys Liquor Stores and the result of a collaboration with Rascal Brewing. €2.75 for a 330ml can or 5 for €10.

Posted in: Beer, Beer & Whiskey

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