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A Wild Weekend with Marks & Spencer

A Wild Weekend with Marks & Spencer

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Marks & Spencer Go Wild

Well, not quite wild, but three wines from three very different countries, with one thing in common; they are all made by ‘natural’ methods, The first is macerated on the skins, the second and third fermented in clay amphorae with skin maceration. Whatever your opinion of natural wines, I think Marks & Spencer deserves real credit for trying them out. I can think of only a few independent retailers that stock such an esoteric range of wines, from the Mediterranean, Eastern and Central Europe in particular but from elsewhere as well. As for the three wines, they were all very enjoyable and worth trying out – the Fresquito in particular.

Fides 2014, Bosman Family Vineyards, Wellington, South Africa
14% and €22 from marks & Spencer

Skin macerated, naturally fermented orange white wine boasts the label. This has a slightly bready nose, and clean fresh pear fruits with a subtle breadiness and distinct orange and lemon peel. Dry finish. Interesting well-made wine that went down well with out roast chicken.

Fresquito Vino Nuevo de Tinaja 2014, Montill-Moriles, Spain

14% and €10.40 from marks & Spencer

If you are a fan of sherry, this is a must buy. Made from the Pedro Ximenez grape in a region next door to Jerez, this is a deliciously fresh light almondy, slightly earthy bone-dry wine – sort of a funky fino. I adored it. At €10.40 is offers fantastic value for money too. As the back label suggests, it goes perfectly with one of Spain’s gastronomic treasures – Iberico Ham.

Tbilvino Qvevris JSC Tibilvino 2014, Kakheti Region, Georgia

12% and €14 from Marks & Spencer

Sort of qvevri light, a qvevri being the traditional clay amphora of Georgia. Not as funky as some I have tried, but enjoyable with light yellow fruits, good refreshing acidity and a light touch of nuts. Made from the local Rkatsiteli grape. At €14 very good value.

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A FEW BARGAINS FROM THE O’BRIENS SEPTEMBER WINE SALE

A FEW BARGAINS FROM THE O’BRIENS SEPTEMBER WINE SALE

A FEW BARGAINS FROM THE O’BRIENS SEPTEMBER WINE SALE
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Xovial Albarino, Rías Baixas
€10

Fresh zesty dry wine with attractive plump pear fruits. It wouldn’t compete with the best wines of Rías Baixas (such as the Pazo de Señorans, €22.95 from O’Briens) but it is very nicely priced, and went down well with fishcakes and dill mayonnaise.

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Leyda Garuma Sauvignon 2013, Leyda Valley
€11.95

Leyda make some excellent exuberant fruit-driven wines in the Leyda Valley. Crisp refreshing gooseberries and grapefruit with loads of lime zest. One for the Savvie lovers to enjoy.

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Bethany Semillon 2010, Barossa Valley
€12.95

The Bethany Semillon is now starting to take on some delicious mature toasty, nutty flavours that combine beautifully with the lime zest and tropical fruits. Very well priced. Perfect with all manner of seafood, but salmon in a buttery sauce sounds good.

Jaspiblanc
Jaspi Blanc 2012, Terra Alta
€9

I haven’t tried this for a year or so, but it was great back then, and I suspect it is as good, and a steal at this price. A well-made crisp refreshing dry white wine with white peach fruits for €9? You cannot go wrong.

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Borie de Maurel 2014, Pays d’Oc Cuvée Luna
€10

Concentrated ripe wild fruits, an attractive earthiness, wrapped around a mineral core. Very Languedoc and very seductive. A steal at €10.

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Ch Belles Eaux Les Coteaux 2012, Languedoc

€11.45

A big, powerful, full-bodied red wine with rippling supple meaty dark fruits, dried herbs and black olives. Classic Languedoc at a very keen price. Decant just before sitting down to a nice juicy rare steak.

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Norton DOC Malbec 2013, Uco Valley
€12.95
Medium to full-bodied and smooth with ripe dark fruits, milk chocolate and spice. The perfect wine for the last barbeque of the season.

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Arpège de Marsau 2010, Côtes de Bordeaux, Francs
€14.95

Rich smooth blackcurrant fruits, with a touch of spice and a nicely rounded finish. Relatively full-bodied for a Bordeaux, this is a nice wine and very good value at less than €15. Drink with roast red meats. A leg or shoulder of lamb would be a lovely weekend treat.

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Three Brilliant Wines from Rioja on their way.

Three Brilliant Wines from Rioja on their way.

REMELLURI RETURNS TO IRELAND

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Remelluri, the home of Spanish winemaker Telmo Rodriguez, will shortly make a welcome return to these shores. This has always been one of my favourite wines in Rioja, and now seems to be destined for even greater things. When I met Rodriguez back in 2014, he was determined to set things right in his home territory. ‘I am’ he said ‘a little bit old, so I think we have enough projects now. But Rioja is very important to me. My family bought our estate there back in the 1960s and I grew up there. Rioja is my main project today, the one in which I am investing most money and effort. It is like the other places I worked in; I have that excitement all over again. Rioja is one of the most amazing places in the world. The big old well-known wineries are responsible for the destruction of the vineyards of Rioja. We and other small producers are recuperating vineyards, finding old vines, going back to what existed before. Rioja needs to show what is inside.’

Rodriguez was born into a Basque family. His father had bought and restored an old monastery in Rioja and named it Remelurri, where he produced wine. Rodriguez studied winemaking with some of the top producers in France and returned to Rioja full of ideas. His father was quite happy with the way he was making wine, so Rodriguez departed. He had met Basque enologist Pablo Eguzkiza while studying at Bordeaux University. Together they founded Compañia de Vinos Telmo Rodríguez in 1984, and set about restoring the historic grapes and traditional practices of Spain. In each region they hired an old grower who remembered the way things used to be done and a young enologist who knew how to make wine. The two men have probably done more than anyone else to restore Spain to its rightful position as one of the great wine-producing countries of the world.

As for Remelluri, the wines were always good, but have even better since Rodriguez returned. He now produces two wines under the Lindes de Remelluri name. These are single vineyard wines, from estates that Remelluri bought every year. It is part of the plan to focus on the varying soils and terroirs of Rioja. One is from the village of Labastida, the other from San Vicente de la Sonsierra. The first is in Rioja Alava, the second in Rioja Alta. Then there is the Remelluri estate wine from their own vineyards.

The wines are now being imported by Vinostito, and should arrive in mid-September. I suspect they will be stocked by leading independents around Ireland. The two Lindes wines will sell for around €22, the estate for €31. Don’t miss them; these are very exciting wines.

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Lindes de Remelluri 2012 Viñedos de San Vicente de la Sonsierra, Rioja

13.5%
€22

Cool elegant black fruits and chalky minerals on the nose; Impeccable linear dark fruits and minerals; precise, young, taut, structured and dry. An excellent wine that needs a few years or decanting before drinking with red meats.

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Lindes de Remelluri 2012 Viñedos de Labastida, Rioja
14%
€22

Slightly riper on the nose than the Sonsierra but the same delicious blackcurrants – a wonderful nose; cool clean linear blackcurrants, a little more giving than the Sonsierra, but still a young taut wine. This is a brilliant wine – it doesn’t have the sweet extracted oakiness of a modern Rioja, nor the developed vegetal notes of the traditional style, but this is all the better for it.

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Remelluri Rioja Reserva 2010
14%
€31

Wow! Wonderful wine. Broader, showing some soft maturity on the nose and palate; ripe dark fruits with real depth and complexity, yet at the sme time a lovely purity of fruit. This is exceptional Rioja. I have coravined my bottle and cannot wait to try it with roast lamb over the weekend!

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A Modest Haul – the weekends consumption

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Mauzac Nature R&B Plageoles 2013, Gaillac
€29.50
I bought some of this wine a few years back while on holiday in France, and really enjoyed it in the sunshine over there. This sample arrived from Terroirs a few months back – possibly I should have tried it sooner. Crisp, fresh, dry and quite cidery. I enjoyed it, my drinking partner less so.

Terras do Cigarrón 2013, Godello, Monterrei
13%
Confirms my theory that Godello, even inexpensive Godello, ages very well. Very pleasant plump easy drinking light white wine. €12.99 from Whelehans, La Touche, Jus de Vine.

Poggio del Sasso Sangiovese 2013, Toscana
12.5%
Light cherry fruits, no real tannins, went very well with our Danish meatballs. Good light easy drinking.

Lieu-Dit, Saint Joseph 2006, Guigal
13%
Wasn’t sure what to expect of a 10 year old Marsanne. This was light in fruit with toasted nuts and wood smoke. Nice enough wine, and interesting to drink, but would have hoped for a little more, as current vintages seem to cost around €50-60.

Villa de Corullón, D. de J. Palacios 2012

14.3%
Coravined back in early March; excellent wine, a lovely mix of savoury dark cherry fruits with a strong mineral streak running throughout. €63 retail.


in vino érotico, Coteaux du Libron 2014

12.5%
This won the Noffla best white under €15 last year, and I can see why; a good clean fresh wine, the Chardonnay and Viognier giving it a subtle texture on the palate, the Sauvignon bringing a nice freshness. Nice wine.

Le Petit Chat Malin Blanc 2014 IGP Pays d’Oc
12.5%
Medium-bodied wine with light yellow stone fruits and custard – peaches in custard? With a crisp acidity. Good everyday wine. €12 from Molloys, Spar, SuperValu, Next Door, Gala, Londis.

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PREVIEW – THE ALDI WINE FESTIVAL

I have already posted a short piece on the forthcoming Lidl French Wine Sale which starts on 12th September. Not to be outdone, Aldi will launch their own Wine Festival on 21st August, featuring wines from fifteen different countries. In the bright surroundings of the Kevin Kavanagh art gallery on Chancery Lane, we tasted our way through 26 wines. It included many decent well-made wines, and a few real stars. Below is a quick run-through of my favourites.

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WHITE WINES

Tokaji Furmint 2015, Hungary €7.99
Very crisp and dry with some lean white peach fruits.

DaoEncosta

Dao Branco Ecosta da Vinha 2014, Portugal €7.99
Light melon and greengage fruits with good refreshing acidity. Made from Encruzado & Bical. Remarkable at the price.

DomaeneWachau
Ried Seiber Gruner Veltliner Reserve 2015 Wachau, Austria €8.99
The star of the show amongst the whites for me. Unusual to find anything from Austria for under €15, let alone €10. From the Domaene Wachau, a high-quality co-op (despite the name)in Austria’s premier wine region, this is a very good refreshing crisp dry white wine, with decent ripe pears and peaches.

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Edition Fritz Keller Baden Riesling 2015 €8.99
Off to medium-dry with clean apple fruits, but doesn’t really have much Riesling character. Good well-made white wine at a very cheap price.

LeafPluckerSB
Leaf Plucker Sauvignon Blanc 2016, Coastal region, South Africa €9.99
Herbaceous green peppers and lime zest, with crisp gooseberry fruits; if you like Marlborough Sauvignon and Sancerre, chances are you will enjoy this.

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RED WINES

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Edition Fritz Keller Baden Pinot Noir 2014, Germany €9.99
Fragrant, and elegant; the acidity might stick out a little, but this is a lovely light wine with red cherry fruits. Nice wine at a mouth-watering price.

DeBortoliGS

De Bertoli GS Pinot Noir, Yarra Valley 2015, Australia €10.99
Richer than the German Pinot above with attractive dark cherry fruits. Again, decent wine at an incredible price for a Yarra Pinot.

NikauPointReserve

Nikau Point Estate Syrah Reserve 2014, Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand €9.99
Possibly a little over-extracted but this is still a very nice wine, at an incredible price. Clean herby dark savoury fruits, with a nice light tannic structure. V. good.

Nonius Estate Feteasca Neagra/Shiraz 2014, Romania €8.99
Not bad; nice plump fruit, good concentration, but finishes on a slightly bitter note. Worth trying though.

GloriaReserva

Gloria Douro Reserva 2014, Portugal €8.99
Elegant, dry light claret-like wine with dark brambly fruits. 13% alcohol. Worth trying with food.

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Canada, Croatia, Volcanoes and Boy Scouts – plus Arbois – a weekends drinking

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Vina Laguna Pinot Sivi 2014, Istria, Croatia
A very pleasant Pinot Grigio with light tropical fruits. €14.95 from Mitchell & Son plus other independents.

Domaine de la Pinte Chardonnay, Arbois, Jura 2014

A beautifully crafted wine with fine green apple fruits, lemon zest, subtle hazelnuts and honey, very good acidity and dry length. According to Wink Lorch in her book Jura, Pinte have the largest holding of Savignin in the world – strange that M&S bought the Chardonnay? Biodynamic. €23.50 from Marks & Spencer.

Alonso del Yerro 2012 Ribera del Duero
A full-bodied, smooth wine, rich in velvety dark fruits, with good length and plenty of power. The kind of wine that would appeal to the hedonists/Parkerites amongst us. Sent to me by the producer. They were imported by Vinostito at one stage, but are currently seeking distribution in Ireland. Give me a shout if you are interested.

Meyer Family Vineyards Pinot Noir 2014, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

I met Brian Meyer, my former scout leader at a function recently; he told me how his cousins had emigrated to Canada decades ago, and ended up owning a vineyard. He visited them at a family reunion and they had sent him a case of Chardonnay, which he said was ‘very nice’. Two weeks later I was in Marks & Spencer and what did I see but the Meyer Family Pinot Noir. I drank it with roast duck (also from M&S) over the weekend. This is a seriously good Pinot, light and juicy but concentrated, with dark cherries and plums. Pricewise, it stacks up well against the competition from Burgundy, Germany and the New World too. €28 from Marks & Spencer

Benanti Etna Rosso 2014
Part of a tasting for a piece on Etna wines for the Irish Times. Both red and white were nice elegant wines; the red had more fruit and intensity than the white. Waiting for the pricing. Imported by Honest2Goodness.

Castel Firmian Marzemino 2014, Mezzacorona, Trentino
A very tasty light wine with leafy crunchy redcurrant fruits, and good acidity. Drank this with pork chops and mushrooms – worked very well. Nice wine. €15 from Mitchell & Son.

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Dinner chez Doorley

On the way home from a wonderful long weekend in west Cork, we stopped off for dinner with Tom and Johann Doorley. Both are great cooks, so the dinner was excellent. We went mushroom hunting in the pouring rain and were rewarded with a decent haul, providing an extra unexpected course. I brought along the Léoville-Lascases; the rest came from the Doorley cellar. Missing from the lineup is a bottle of 2001 Riesling Kabinett Graacher Himmelrich Willi Shaefer – which was superb; light, honeyed, crisp and utterly delicious.

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Trimbach Cuvée Frédéric Emile 2000
Strange: the label was Fred Emile, the cork was branded Vendage Tardive. Possibly a VT sticker had fallen off. Trimbach combine the two in exceptional vintages, such as 2000. In any case sadly the wine (which seemed sweetish) was oxidised.

Ch. Léoville Lascases 1986
Drinking beautifully. Lovely slightly austere ripe blackcurrant and damson fruits, a good tannic structure and a long dry finish. Very Bordeaux, but not too tannic or severe. Excellent wine.

Clos des Lambreys 1996
A Grand Cru from Morey Saint Denis (now owned by LVMH). This was fully mature but still all there. Fragrant leafy nose, soft sweet ripe developed fruit with a savoury note and decent length. Charming wine.

Harveys Bristol Cream.
A 1962 bottling and an extraordinary wine. Apparently Frank Searson (lately of Searsons Wine Merchants) asked Harveys to use longer corks, which may account for the fantastic longevity of the wine. But obviously Harveys Bristol Cream was a different drink in those days. Deep in colour, with a complex nose and palate of figs, raisins, toasted nuts and dried fruits. Sweet, but not sickly. Obviously a lot of Pedro Ximénez used. An amazing long finish. Superb wine.

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Another weekend – Orange wine, Teroldego, Alsace and more..

Another weekend – Orange wine, Teroldego, Alsace and more..

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Tenuta Valgiano 2007, Colline Lucchesi, Italy
Batič Zaria 2006, Vipavska Dolina (Kakovostno Vino ZGP)

See my blog from yesterday on Two Elderly Wines for the full story on these – both delicious wines

Three Alsace Rieslings, part of a blind tasting I did for the Irish Times. The CV de Hunawihr will feature in the Times soon. But the other two were also very good, and well-priced at €18-20 a bottle

Hugel Classic Riesling 2014
€19.99 I think; lively fresh crisp Riesling with a nice steely backbone.Nice wine.

Sipp Mack Riesling Tradition 2014
Slightly rounder with some red apple fruits and a crisp finish. Another very good wine.

Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits Les Chanussets 2014, Cave Vinicole de Bourgogne
€11-13

Not often you taste a red Burgundy at under €15; I cannot pretend that this will compete with a Grand Cru Gevrey, but it is recognisably Pinot, with light sweet cherry and red fruits. Very gluggable light wine. This will feature in the Lidl French Wine Sale in early September.

Teroldego Rotaliano 2015, Italy
I received both a Teroldego and a Marzemino this week, from two different sources. Haven’t got around to the Marzemino yet, but the Teroldego is a lovely light summery red wine. From Marks & Spencer for €11.79, 12.5% alcohol. €11.79 from Marks & Spencer.

Grüner Veltliner Rabl 2014, Kamptal, Austria
A light fresh zippy Grüner with mouthwatering pear fruits at a very keen price. Great summer drinking. €13.30 from Marks & Spencer.

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Two elderly wines with a long story attached.

Over the weekend, I dug out a couple of oldish bottles to try. Both had a bit of a story, and both were far better than I expected.

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Tenuta di Valgiano 2007, Colline Lucchesi
14%
60% Sangiovese, 20% each Syrah and Merlot.

Wonderful wine, medium-bodied, with a lifted bouquet of maturing, lightly leafy dark fruits; the palate is elegant and long with black pepper, savoury dark cherry fruits, nicely judged tannins and good mineral acidity. Superb.

I first met Saverio Petrelli when we were fellow students on an MW course down in Sète in the mid-1990’s. He somehow managed to tear a ligament and spent most of the course hobbling around on crutches. However, he bore his injury with great humour and was great fun to be around. He had just joined a new estate in Tuscany, near Lucca, as winemaker, having worked in Castello di Rampolla, I think. The estate was Tenuta di Valgiano.

A few years later I met him at Vinitaly, where he served me some wonderful local Tuscan foods, including some superb olive oil from the estate, along with his wine. I was working for Searsons, and soon arranged to import the wines (and superb olive oil) into Ireland. We took in several shipments, but I then left the company. When I retuned as consultant buyer six years later, they were no longer importing the wines, but had a collection of mature vintages. Some were great, others showing their age a little. Valgiano by now was fully biodynamic, and Saverio apparently one of the leading lights in the movement in Italy.

Fast forward a few years, and I was eating in Bistro One in Foxrock and talking to the owner, Mark Shannon. He had a holiday home next door to Valgiano, and imported the wines, and very kindly gave me a bottle of same as I left. I stuck it in my cellar, and somehow never found the right occasion to open it. Until Thursday night, when I felt like something different and cracked the bottle open, or rather Coravined a glass, as I was the only one drinking red wine. It was delicious; see tasting note above. I consumed the rest over the weekend. Drinking a glass of wine that has a story is always special, and this evoked some lovely memories of times past.

As for Saverio, I haven’t seen him for years, but browsing online he looks, like me, older, greyer, and, I am sure, wiser.

PS I see I am not the only Irish wine writer to fall for Valgiano; Paddy has a lovely post on https://thevineinspiration.org

Batič Zaria 2006, Vipavska Dolina (Kakovostno Vino ZGP)
14%

Orange in colour, lightly fizzy, with dried fruits, nuts, orange peel, spice and a strong mineral streak, finishing dry. Fascinating wine to sip over an evening. It went brilliantly with blue cheese (the new health food by the way. I am with them on this one).
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I visited the Batič winery around 2005 on one of the strangest and most enjoyable press trips I have ever been on. It is in the Vipava Vally in Slovenia, not far from the Italian border. We had an interesting visit and a great tasting, and nibbled on the estate’s own Prszt (Slovenian prosciutto) and cheese. As I remember, father Ivan and son Miha produced some very good Cabernet Franc, a lovely rosé, and some very good whites, ‘made like red wine’ as they called it then. Basically the juice was left in contact with the grapes for extended periods, giving a unique flavour. We tasted a number of these on our visit, particularly in Vipava, where Batič is located.

Later that year, I was asked to choose my two favourite wines of the year for the A&A Farmar Wine Guide 2006, and included the Batič Sivi Pinot Rieserva 2003 – a Pinot Gris. I wrote then:

‘Is this a rosé or a white wine? Made from Pinot Gris, it was macerated on the skins for ten days, taking on a rosy hue. As a wine it is quite amazing; tantalizing, complex aromas of strawberries and light red fruits; a big, rich, broad palate, concentrated, slightly oily, some shortbread biscuits too; plenty of rich, ripe strawberry fruits; long and fascinating. Quite unlike any other wine I have tasted.’

A few months later, a case of wine arrived on my doorstep, accompanied by a lovely heartfelt letter from Ivan Batič, thanking me for writing about his wine. I felt a little guilty accepting the wines, but as I couldn’t send them back, I enjoyed them over the next few years; all except for one bottle that lurked somewhere in my cellar. I took it out over the weekend, expecting very little, but was very pleasantly surprised. It is made from seven grape varieties, Pinela, Zelen, Ribula Gialla, Vitovska, Klarnica, Rumeni Muskat and Chardonnay. They are grown biodynamically in the same vineyard, picked at the same time and co-fermented. This is an orange wine, fermented on the skins in open vats with no temperature control. Orange wines are controversial, but I loved this one.

I see on the internet the Batič winery is still gong strong, but sadly they are imported into Ireland – yet.

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Lidl French Wine Sale Part Two – Red Wine Preview

<strong>Lidl French Wine Sale Part Two – Red Wine Preview</strong>

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As mentioned in my earlier post, Lidl will hold their French Wine Sale from 12th September onwards. I tasted my way through all of the wines. Here is a brief preview of my favourite red wines. There may well be more to add when I receive further samples shortly. There were fewer fine wines this year I think, but plenty of nicely priced wines to tempt us all. Their selection of inexpensive Bordeaux is very strong this year.

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Fleurie 2015 Mignot Père & Fils €9-11
If you are a fan of Beaujolais (and I am) you will certainly enjoy this wine. 2015 was a great vintage in Beaujolais and it shows. Very nice crunchy ripe cherry fruits and a smooth easy finish. Amazing value, particularly if it sells for less than €10.

Image 15Philippe de Bois d’Arnault Ladoix Les Gonia 2014 (€15.99-17.99)
Decent chunky dark cherry fruits with nice refreshing acidity. Good value for money.

Image 6Ch. de Rousselet 2011, Côtes de Bourg (€9-11)
Very attractive light leafy mature Bordeaux with soft blackberry fruits. This is very keenly priced, and will certainly go down well with claret lovers.

Ch. Lalande Mausse 2013, Fronsac, Bordeaux (€9-11)

Clean fresh blackcurrant fruits, with good acidity and nice weight and quality of fruit. Nice wine.
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Ch. Roylland 2012 St. Émilion Grand Cru (€19-20)
Very ripe, soft lush dark fruits; slightly animal and some new oak. Very easy commercial wine that will please the crowds, but not really my style.
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Virginie de Valandraud 2014 St. Émilion Grand Cru (€33-35)

Another lush soft sexy wine with ripe cassis and some spicy new oak. As with the previous wine, it will certainly appeal to those who like rounded oaky wines.

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Ch. de la Dauphine 2011, Fronsac (€22-25)
Very good chunky ripe Bordeaux with plums, blackcurrant and cassis, a nice tannic grip, finishing well. Classic right-bank Bordeaux at a good price.
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Ch. Lagrange 2012, Saint Julien Grand Cru Classé €40
As posted earlier this is a nice wine with classic St. Julien flavours of blackcurrant, cedar wood and good fine grained tannins. Very good wine, but I would like a little more length and concentration for my €40. Still very enjoyable drinking though.

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