Mary Pawle Wines
Mary Pawle and her husband Ivan are far to nice to say it, but they must look on the current fashion for organic, biodynamic and natural wines with a wry smile. They are certainly far too nice to complain. Mary Pawle Wines was set up by the couple twenty one years ago with the sole purpose of importing organic wines. Back then organic wines were seen by most in the business as undrinkable and of no commercial interest, bought by a small group of hippies who knew nothing about wine. ‘A lot of people thought it was a very silly notion,’ says Mary ‘and some were very confused. They thought I was going to make gorse wine or something like that.’ How times have changed! Now it seems every importer is trying to seduce us with their range of low or no-sulphur, non-interventionist organic or biodynamic wines made according to the phases of the moon.
It’s great to see’, says Mary, I’ve always wanted to keep ours as a small business but now I have competition from all sides. To be honest, in those days a lot of those organic wines, made by well-intentioned people were undrinkable. But it became very clear early on, in France in particular, that consumers were very taken with the idea.’
They have lived in Gortnamullen near Kenmare since for 40 years. This is not a fast-moving, marketing-driven company, seeking plaudits from journalists and social media. In fact it took a gentle reminder from a friend and colleague to remind me of their existence. But I have been meeting the couple at the occasional tasting every year since their inception. I have always received a genuinely warm welcome and have always enjoyed the wines too.
Once I made contact with them, I received a case of samples. Since then I have been working my way slowly through an intriguing selection. All of the wines so far have been well-made and interesting, and all pretty good value for money. Probably the best-known supplier is Ch. Feely, the biodynamic producer, also known for the books on the subject written by Caroline Feely. The emphasis is on France, and exclusively European.
They do sell wine directly to the public , but not online; you need to send an email (although their coverage is not always reliable). Alternatively you could give them a call, and receive some friendly advice. See their website, marypawlewines.com. Some of their wines are sold through independent retailers; Clontarf Wines and Morton’s in Ranelagh both stock a range. All four wines below are organic.
A mere 10.5% in alcohol, this would make a great summer wine, with its light tangy fresh pear fruits and a very slight spritz. Perfect on its own or with seafood dishes. An organic wine made from three local grapes – Loureiro, Avesso and Arinto.
L’Air Innocent 2015, Vin Nature, Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine sur Lie, Domaine de la Fessardière
Some no sulphur wines, particularly white wines, can be difficult to like., A small dose of SO2 at bottling . This sulphur-free, organic wine however, is very good indeed. A mere 12% in alcohol, with plump apple and white peach fruits, underpinned by a refreshing acidity, it is a joy to drink. Try it by itself, with shellfish, or salads. We enjoyed our bottle with a bowl of mussels with pasta.
I am a big fan of lighter Tempranillo and this is my kind of wine; fragrant and juicy with good pure dark cherry fruits and a mineral touch. Very approachable and enjoyable, and great value for money too.
Domaine de Brau have been organic for many years. They are based in the Cabardès region of the Languedoc, where the unique climate is responsible for some unusually elegant wines. This is very palatable, a touch earthy, with plenty of concentrated pure dark cherry fruits; more burly than earthy, but attractive and very good value at the price.