Dinner chez Doorley

On the way home from a wonderful long weekend in west Cork, we stopped off for dinner with Tom and Johann Doorley. Both are great cooks, so the dinner was excellent. We went mushroom hunting in the pouring rain and were rewarded with a decent haul, providing an extra unexpected course. I brought along the Léoville-Lascases; the rest came from the Doorley cellar. Missing from the lineup is a bottle of 2001 Riesling Kabinett Graacher Himmelrich Willi Shaefer – which was superb; light, honeyed, crisp and utterly delicious.


Trimbach Cuvée Frédéric Emile 2000
Strange: the label was Fred Emile, the cork was branded Vendage Tardive. Possibly a VT sticker had fallen off. Trimbach combine the two in exceptional vintages, such as 2000. In any case sadly the wine (which seemed sweetish) was oxidised.

Ch. Léoville Lascases 1986
Drinking beautifully. Lovely slightly austere ripe blackcurrant and damson fruits, a good tannic structure and a long dry finish. Very Bordeaux, but not too tannic or severe. Excellent wine.

Clos des Lambreys 1996
A Grand Cru from Morey Saint Denis (now owned by LVMH). This was fully mature but still all there. Fragrant leafy nose, soft sweet ripe developed fruit with a savoury note and decent length. Charming wine.

Harveys Bristol Cream.
A 1962 bottling and an extraordinary wine. Apparently Frank Searson (lately of Searsons Wine Merchants) asked Harveys to use longer corks, which may account for the fantastic longevity of the wine. But obviously Harveys Bristol Cream was a different drink in those days. Deep in colour, with a complex nose and palate of figs, raisins, toasted nuts and dried fruits. Sweet, but not sickly. Obviously a lot of Pedro Ximénez used. An amazing long finish. Superb wine.

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