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2015 Burgundy – wines to buy before they disappear…

BURGUNDY 2015

This is an expanded version of an article I wrote for the Irish Times on Saturday 11th February 2017, on the 2015 vintage in Burgundy.

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I worry about Burgundy. It produces my favourite red wine, and has probably given me greater pleasure (and at times heartache) than any other wine. But now supply, always a problem at the best of times, is getting worse. And more expensive. Interest in Burgundy from the Far East and elsewhere has exploded, with collectors willing to pay very high sums for the top names. At the same time, a series of small harvests has restricted availability. And now along comes the 2015 vintage, heralded by some as the greatest since 1929. Prices are moving steadily upwards, and quantities are even more limited than usual, 20-30% less than in 2014. A number of Irish importers are currently offering ‘en primeur’ offers of 2015 Burgundy, with more to follow later this year. This means buying a wine that is still in cask, only receiving later this year or in early 2018.

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I traveled to Burgundy last November with Liam & Sinéad Cabot of specialist importer Cabot & Co. The couple work with a range of exciting producers in Burgundy, so we had the opportunity to taste a wide variety of wines. While most people tend to concentrate on red wines en primeur, they also offer some outstanding white wines as well. In addition to their own wines, the Cabots receive allocations from other importers, including a few very good names. They are also awaiting confirmation of an allocation from Georges Noellat one of the most sought-after new stars of Burgundy.

There is no doubt that 2015 was an excellent year for red wines; leaving aside the hype (and there is no shortage of that) most are laden with perfectly ripe, succulent fruit, excellent concentration and good acidic balance. In a generally warm and dry growing season, the biggest danger seems to be low acidity, and an over-supply of sugar leading to high alcohol levels. In a region that traditionally struggled to ripen grapes (and frequently added sugar to increase alcohol levels ) this is an unusual problem.

Two warnings. No matter how good the vintage, poor winemakers can still produce very average wine. Buy from producers (and importers) you feel you can trust. Many of the wines below are available in tiny quantities, so move quickly if you are interested. If you cannot find afford to buy caseloads of wine, keep an eye out for 2014 reds – an underrated vintage for both red and white Burgundy, and if you should happen to come across any from 2010, snap them up; this is an excellent vintage. I would also suggest keeping a few euros for 2015 (and apparently 2016 as well) from the Northern Rhône, as well as exceptional Pinot Noir (Spätburgunder) and Riesling from Germany. Having said that, I am certainly going to buy some 2015 Burgundy. Burgundy 2015 is being offered by Burgundy Direct, Cabot & Co., Searsons Wine Merchants and Greenacres. See below for comments on each offer.

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Cabot & Co.

According to Liam Cabot, “2015 is an outstanding vintage – it’s a vintage of pleasure and enjoyment and the wines will drink well from release, yet have the structure to age. Many are comparing it to 2005, but those of a slightly older generation also point as far back as 1949 and 1929. However there are a couple of things bear in mind. Firstly, it’s a ripe vintage which is generally good, but a few wines had excessive extraction. Those who emphasised freshness and fruit purity have produced wonderful wines. Secondly, there is quality all across the hierarchy of appellations – from the entry-level wines to the Grand Crus. Although prices are rising, it is possible to find classic wines that will deliver real pleasure at very reasonable prices. I suppose it was inevitable that prices would rise given the quality of the vintage and also the fact the vignerons now know that 2016 will be a small vintage – so for some it’s a case of “make hay while the sun shines”. That said, some producers have been a bit more in haymaking mode than others!’

Contact Cabot & Co. on 098 37000 or email sales@cabotandco.com for a copy of their Burgundy offer. Their others lists are available on their website, www.cabotandco.com My personal highlights from Cabot & Co were as follows:

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Domaine Mugneret-Gibourg

This is a great domaine, run by sisters Marie-Christine and Marie-Andrée Mugneret with their mother Jacqueline. Hard to chose here; all of the wines are impeccable, perfectly ripe and balanced, showing real elegance but with an underlying structure. I have no tasting note for the Bourgogne Rouge, but on past evidence, I would earmark this for drinking over the next few years, and the outstanding Echezeaux or Clos de Vougeot for laying down.

 

Jean Marc Millot

Jean Marc Millot, now aided by his daughter Alix, makes some beautifully understated wines with wonderful purity of fruit. I have followed the Côtes de Nuits Villages ‘Aux Falques’ for years (currently drinking the lovely 2010) and would certainly buy again. Of the other wines, I loved the fragrant, pure Vosne-Romanée, and the superb Echezeaux, but all are of a very high quality.

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Domaine Livera

The Fixin here is very reasonably priced and with its cool, crunchy dark fruits has what the French call ‘un bon typicité’.

 

Domaine Voillot

Not the most glamorous estate, but well-made wines at very fair prices. Liam Cabot tells me they age very well too. Here I enjoyed the a lovely classic reasonably-priced Volnay and an excellent Pommard Les Epenots that will certainly repay keeping.

 

Pierre-Yves Colin Morey

The intense and studious Pierre-Yves Colin Morey recently moved into a large new cellar in Chassagne. From a string of brilliant white wines, I would go for the elegant Saint Aubin ‘Le Banc’, the excellent Chassagne Caillerets, or the stunning Meursault Genévrières. To be honest though I would be very happy to have any of these wines in my cellar; they have an impeccable fresh minerality and elegance.

 

Burgundy Direct

Conor Richardson of Burgundy Direct is making his 25th Burgundy offer. He says ‘2015 Burgundy is an excellent, possibly an outstanding vintage. Though much hyped, much anticipated and certainly much sought-after, there is always the thought that perhaps ‘excellent’ and / or ‘outstanding’ vintages come around too often to merit such laurels. Skepticism is understandable in what has become an increasingly commercial world, but there will surely be no doubt that wine lovers generally and Burgundy lovers in particular can only be hugely impressed by this very, very fine vintage’.

From the very fine Burgundy Direct offer, I am a huge fan of Ann Gros and her wines, and I would love to have a few cases. I have bought both the Hautes Cotes de Nuits and Bourgogne Rouge before and always been very happy with them. But there is also Robert Chevillon, Patrick Javillier (excellent whites) de Vogué, Marc Colin, Vincent Dancer and Joblot, all excellent producers.

Nomad Wines

Ex sommeliers Charles Derain and Thierry Gillet import an excellent range of wines from Burgundy and elsewhere (see nomadwineimporters.com). Nomad Wines will wait until June to make his offer. Derain is however, very positive; ‘In Cote-d Or, the yields were quite small too, some areas showed a volume decrease of 20-30% compared to 2014. The grapes were absolutely healthy, beautiful to eat. Everything I had tried was outstanding so far, reminding me of 2005. The wines are coloured with a incredible balance and structure. It will take some time for the wine to settle. I have tried some super Bourgogne Hautes de Beaune and Nuits 2015 that will give some great value.’

Greenacres

Donal Morris reports ‘the reds are superb and certainly the best since 2005 and even surpassing it. They have a lovely purity of fruit, a luscious concentration and are very fragrant.  And this is right across the region.’ From their offer, I would head straight to Benjamin Leroux, one of the new stars of Burgundy, not forgetting Marc Morey, Robert Chevillon, Robert Groffier, Hubert Lignier and many more besides.

Searsons

Searsons of Monkstown also have a good offer. Here, I would head straight for Tollot Beaut, one of my favourite producers (the Chorey-les-Beaune and Savigny 1er cru generally offer exceptional value) and also to Comtes Lafon, including his excellent wines from the Maconnais. See searsons.com for full details.

 

 

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Saint Aubin ‘Le Banc’ 2014 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey

Saint Aubin ‘Le Banc’ 2014 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey

St. Aubin Le BancSaint Aubin ‘Le Banc’ 2014 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey

€39 from Cabot & Co. (cabotandco.com), Westport; No. 1 Pery Square, Limerick; Grapevine, Dalkey.

Magnificent classic white Burgundy with grilled hazelnuts, toasty new oak and ripe green apple fruit, cut through by plenty of zesty mineral acidity.

This calls out for your finest fish; black sole or turbot swimming in butter sounds appropriately grand. Alternatively, this would go perfectly with a starter of smoked salmon with your Christmas dinner.

Pierre-Yves Morey recently installed himself in a large modern winery on the edge of Chassagne-Montrachet. I recently tasted his white wines from 2015, a vintage he predicts will be great. They were wonderfully precise and supremely elegant with complex rich fruits. In the meantime, we can enjoy the wine above, which features in Wilson on Wine 2017.

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Keller Riesling Trocken 2013, Rheinhessen

Keller Riesling Trocken 2013, Rheinhessen

DSCF6988Keller Riesling Trocken 2013, Rheinhessen
€21.99 from Grapevine, Dalkey and Cabot & Co, Westport

A wine that dances across the palate; light and fragrant, free-flowing and fresh. A mere 12% in alcohol, it gently explodes with fruit.

Drink by itself or with light white fish dishes.

Klaus Peter Keller is one of Germany’s finest winemakers. Based in one of the less fashionable regions of the country, he still manages to produce a series of unbelievably good dry and sweet wines. This is his entry-level dry white, a steal at around €20.

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Ch. Guillebot Plaisance 2013, Bordeaux

<strong>Ch. Guillebot Plaisance 2013, Bordeaux</strong>

Image 2Ch. Guillebot Plaisance 2013, Bordeaux
12.5%
€13.95 from Liston’s, Camden Street, Grapevine, Dalkey, and Cabot & Co. Westport.

When making notes at wine tastings I have a personal shorthand. W.M.D.W.W. means well made dry white wine, O/O.O/A.O/E. is for over-oaked, too much alcohol and over extracted. O.D.C. signifies ordinary decent claret (as opposed to ordinary decent criminal), for a particular kind of red wine from Bordeaux. These are light to medium bodied wines, with just ripe blackcurrant and blackberry fruits, with a refreshing acidity and a dryish finish. I love them; they are great all-purpose wines to go with red and white meats, including stews and cheese dishes. The ordinary bit means they have to sell for less than €15. The Guillebot Plaisance fits all the above criteria, and is even light enough to sip solo.

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A Weekend’s Drinking

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A few very nice bottles over the weekend mostly grabbed from my stash of ageing wine.

Domine des Anges Ventoux Blanc 2014
13.5%

A blend, I think, of Grenache, Roussanne and Bourbelenc. Good quite rich peachy white with a bracing acidity. It cost around €13 a bottle (Cases.ie and Red Nose Wines, Clonmel), and is good value at that. Sent a few months ago as a sample, which I coravined to keep fresh.


Lettre d’Eloïse Chardonnay 2013, Coteaux Bourguignons, Bertrand Ambroise

13%

Good clean fresh, well-made Burgundy with a lip-smacking wet-stone character, light oak and a zesty lemon edge. Nice wine. Imported by Le Caveau. Sells for around €20 I think.

Westhofener Riesling Trocken 2011 Wittmann
13%

I have been drinking a lot of Riesling (and a lot of Wittmann) recently. Philip Wittmann makes some lovely wines. This I bought a year or two ago, and it has matured nicely; medium-bodied with light honey, beeswax and a subtle nuttiness finishing dry. Great sipping wine while making dinner.

Moulin-a-Vent 2008, Les Trois Roches, Domaine de Vissoux
12.5%

I love Beaujolais and this is one of the great producers. I bought six bottles of this six years ago and recently started working my way through it. Delicious light soft cherry fruits. Wish I had bought more.

Fayard 2012, Côtes du Ventoux, Domaine de Fondrèche

14%

I am not sure what sort of a vintage 2012 was in the southern Rhône but this was a very enjoyable wine. Medium-bodied with a wonderful purity of dark fruit, and hints of spice. A world away from some of the big, dare I say clumsy, wines of the Southern Rhône. I had kept it for a year or so.

Fontodi Chianti Classico 2006
14%

I bought six bottles of this and the 2007 vintage a few years back, and am both, but I think I prefer the 2006. Rich and quite powerful black fruits, cherries and blackcurrants, but with a nice refreshing streak of acidity and a good finish. Will keep for a few years yet.

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TWO TOP DROPS FOR THE WEEKEND

Is spring here yet? I am never really a fan of bigger more alcoholic reds, but once the weather starts to warm up a little, I quickly switch to lighter wines. Last weekend I met up with one of my favourite producers of red wines, Matthieu Baudry of Domaine Baudry in Chinon. It was at a tasting organised by the Knockranny House Hotel and Cabot & Co, both based in Westport. It was a brilliant tasting, followed by an excellent dinner (Seamus Commons being one of the best chefs in the country). I also gorged myself on one of the best collections of Rieslings in the country (see www.cabotandco.com) including those of Klaus Peter Keller. The dry Riesling below is excellent, and the Kirchspiel is magnificent. Sadly it costs around €50 a bottle.

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Klaus Peter Keller Dry Riesling 2013, Rheinhessen
€20.99

Light and refreshing but with wonderful piercing concentrated lightly honeyed peach fruits. By itself or with plain shellfish.

Available from Cabot & Co. (www.cabotandc.com) ,On the Grapevine, Dalkey, and No1 Pery Square, Limerick.

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Domaine Baudry Chinon Les Granges 2014
€18.99

Crunchy free-flowing and fresh juicy redcurrant fruits in a lively but very enjoyable wine. Serve it cool, but not chilled, with charcuterie.

Available from Cabot & Co. (www.cabotandc.com) ,On the Grapevine, Dalkey, Listons, Camden St, Donnybrook Fair, Malahide, Red Island Wines, Skerries, Market 57, Westport and No1 Pery Square, Limerick.

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